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Mineral Makeup: A Gold Mine for Skin

Hot cosmetics trend leaves you looking good, naturally

By Christy Strawser Photo by Brett Mountain

They say everyone wishes for silver and gold, but what about mica and zinc oxide? Believe it or not, the latter two minerals are high on the beauty wish lists of many women looking to avoid additives and preservatives in their makeup. That's because they're two of the oft-listed ingredients in mineral makeup, one of the hottest things on the cosmetics market right now, with promises to even skin tone, smooth wrinkles and reflect light - all using natural ingredients that are actually good for your skin.

Nearly every mass-market beauty line, along with specialty retailers and homesales companies such as Avon and Mary Kay, now offers its own mineral products. The selections run the gamut from eye shadows and liners to lipstick, glosses, foundation, blush and more.

Kelly Donigan of St. Clair Shores started using bareMinerals foundation about six months ago and says she's noticed a change.

"My skin is smoother and clearer," says Donigan, 23. "It gives me perfect coverage, but doesn't feel heavy."

What are these minerals and how do they work? Ingredients vary by product, but bareMinerals, the original mineral makeup from Bare Escentuals, lists only five ingredients on its label: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, mica, iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride.

The naturally produced minerals are crushed for their pigment and sun-protection factor and refined to a silky powder, according to the company. Mineral makeup products are touted for being natural and less harsh, making them ideal for people with skin problems or sensitivities.

John Sosa, M.D., of Blue Amber Medical Spa & Wellness in West Bloomfield, says the composition of mineral makeup makes it gentler and less likely to cause irritation than its traditional counterparts. He says most mineral makeup is oil-free and won't clog pores, though he points out that anyone can have a reaction to any ingredient.

Mineral makeups have a natural sun protection factor, says Sosa, as minerals naturally reflect sun's rays. Blue Amber carries the mineral line TRUE Cosmetics, which has an SPF of 17.

"Most women say [mineral makeups] feel lighter, go on a little bit easier, and you apply them with a brush instead of your fingers," he says.

Au naturel

Minerals are a big seller at Sephora, which offers its own line, along with those from bare-Minerals and Cover FX.

"Most [customers] are looking for something that's [more natural]," says Suzie Gorse, color lead and product expert at the beauty emporium at The Mall at Partridge Creek in Clinton Township, "something that doesn't have oils, waxes, parabens; maybe they have acne concerns, and they're looking for something that heals the skin. We can match anyone, and it's great for people with sensitivity."

The lack of additives drew Nancy Farmer, a certified medical assistant and esthetician at Fountain of Youth Cosmetic and Laser Center in Birmingham. Farmer says she was worried about putting chemicals on her face, so she switched to Mineral Fusion, exclusive to Whole Foods Market.

"A lot of the chemicals that they put into makeup build up into your tissues," Farmer says. "With this, there are no parabens, no preservatives, nothing, and it doesn't irritate my skin at all."

Another specialty mineral line is Pür Minerals, which distinguishes itself with multipurpose cosmetics such as a four-in-one product that serves as a foundation, concealer, powder and sunscreen, with no talc, alcohol or preservatives.

"It's all about multitasking," says Pur Minerals spokeswoman Jackie Sands.

Beauty at a bargain

For those who prefer to buy makeup at drugstore prices, major brands such as Neutrogena, L'oréal Paris, Physicians Formula, Almay, Revlon, Cover Girl and Maybelline New York offer mineral makeup lines, with most foundations running $10-$15, compared to about $25 for Pur Minerals or bareMinerals foundations.

However, be sure to check labels for individual products, as not all are free of talc - which can cause skin irritation - or preservatives. For example, a review of the ingredients list shows Maybelline New York's Mineral Power foundation is the only one among the aforementioned drugstore lines truly free of preservatives, talc, oil and fragrance. L'oréal's Bare Naturale foundation contains talc, while Neutrogena Mineral Sheers, Almay Pure Blends and Physicians Formula Mineral Wear foundations have forms of paraben, a preservative. Revlon's ColorStay Mineral and Cover Girl's TruBlend Minerals foundations contain both.

Maybelline's mineral line won the highest approval rating among drugstore brands from reviewers on the Web site www.makeupalley.com, a social network of beauty consumers.

"Products in the line, such as the Mineral Power Liquid Foundation and Mineral Power Powder Foundation, are talcfree, oil-free and fragrance-free - excellent for sensitive skin," says Serena Giovi, vice president of marketing for Maybelline New York. "As the No. 1 cosmetics company at mass, we are able to offer women all the benefits of microminerals at a more affordable price point."